... rather than a gui for build phases, targets, etc?
I usually see the gui.
Sometimes this happens because you are in version-control view. There are three buttons: normal view, assistant view, and version-control view. Make sure you're in one of the first two.
EDIT: Also, I had another thought. "pbxproj"??? The current suffix is "xcodeproj", and has been for a really long time. You might be just trying to open a file that's too old for your version of Xcode.
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