At some point my cursor changed from a vertical bar to an underbar. I must have pressed some magic combination of keys. Any idea how to change it back?
Select "Preferences" → "Settings-Default". Go to Default settings tab change the options related to caret.
Select Start > Settings > Ease of Access > Text cursor. Select Turn on text cursor indicator. Adjust the Change text cursor indicator size slider until it looks like you want in the preview. Select one of the Suggested text cursor indicator colors, or select Pick a custom color to choose your own.
Right click -> Keyboard Settings, and then Speed -> Cursor blink rate.
Switching between these modes happens by pressing the Insert key on your keyboard (usually there are two of them, one somewhere above of the arrow keys and another on the Num Pad).
Hit Insert That'll change it back. You might have noticed that if you went back on code and typed some you'd be overwriting instead of inserting.
On mac OS, to toggle between vertical and horizontal cursor in SublimeText 3:
command + option + o
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