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Is it possible to change MKMapView display to grayscale ?
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No, the MapKit API does not support any manipulation of the tiles. If you're interested in just a static grayscale map, you might be successful in taking a MKMapSnapshot and manipulate the image afterwards. This won't work for an interactive map, though.
You can also put a semi-transparent image view on top of the mapView. This won't allow you to completely decolorize the underlying mapView. However, you might achieve a similar effect. See the Metropolis Compass app for example.
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