How to make keybindings.json read+write, on Linux Ubuntu 18.04?
Relatedly, where is this file located?
My end goal is to remap the Esc key.
You can open the keybindings.json file by clicking on the "{ }" symbol in the top right corner of the keyboard shortcut preferences window. That way you can see the path of the file and edit the file permissions.

Than you can see the path on the top left of the file and edit the file permissions.

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